Montreal

Montreal is a lesson in contradictions: sometimes French, sometimes English (but mostly Frenglish); highbrow culture and lowbrow costs; traditional and rebellious; and old and new. All that stuff you’ve been hearing about European charm? All true. Just take a walk in Old Montreal and you’ll feel like you’re in France - until you cross paths with a beaver tail stand (no, that’s not as dirty as it sounds; it’s a slab of fried dough lathered with such fare as Nutella, bananas, caramel, marshmallows, or any other sweet thing that might catch your fancy). Wander a couple of blocks north and you’ll find yourself on Saint Catherine Street, in the heart of downtown Montreal - think less quaint Parisian allée and more New York City block.

In the summer, take advantage of the Bixie bike stands that have popped up on almost every street in the last couple of years. It’s $5 for a half hour ride, and you’ll get to experience the city like a local by taking the new and improved bike lanes.

What does Canadian food look like? Well, not much. You have your maple syrup and your beans (and sometimes both), ham, mashed potatoes, and most heart-attack worthy of all: poutine, a dish made up of French fries, gravy, and cheese curds - best consumed as a post-dancing middle-of-the-night snack at La Banquise.

But fear not. In fact, rejoice! If you’re a foodie, Montreal is the place to be. It’s no surprise that local chefs like Chuck Hughes have gained international cred. The city’s ethnic and national diversity makes for great meals. From molecular cuisine at Restaurant Toqué to afternoon dim sum in Chinatown with a stop for artisanal ice cream at Le Bilboquet, there’s something for everyone, and every budget.

Local Quebec cheese has won international prizes (Shhh! don’t tell the French) so be sure to try some at one of the many wine bars around the city.

If Toronto is Canada’s commercial hub, Montreal is its cultural capital. Named a UNESCO City of Design in 2006, the city is home to 38 museums of all shapes and sizes. Art, architecture, natural history, science, photography - take your pick. And as for music, ask Arcade Fire, Stars, We Are Wolves, etc what they think! The last few years have seen an indie rock explosion, with new bands and artists springing up on every corner, and fiercely loyal fans that will stand in crowded bars to see the up and comers play. For bigger shows, head to the Bell Center, where everyone from the Rolling Stones to Lady Gaga has made an appearance.

If it’s festivals are more your thing, you’re in luck. Summer is basically just one event after another, from the Festival International de Jazz de Montréal, and Les FrancoFolies (the world’s largest French-language festival), to Just for Laughs, through Osheaga weekend, and ending with Pop Montreal, you can catch hundreds of shows (many of them free!).

Also it’s home to Megan Draper (and Jessica Pare, who plays her). Walking into Don at an art show? Très chic!

Montreal is the kind of place you can return to over and over again and never experience the same thing twice. For first timers, sights like the Oratoire Saint Joseph, Vieux Montréal (Old Montreal), and Mont-Royal park are a must. For the wandering artist types, a walk around the Plateau Mont-Royal and Mile End will reveal the city’s inner bohemian (and/or hipster). For an upscale French-toned Sunday brunch, head to Outremont, where the beautiful people stroll in and out of quaint boutiques on sunny days. Drink in the centuries-old charm of the Place Jacques Cartier, and revel in the fresh breeze (or frigid wind, depending on the season) from the St. Lawrence river.

From screeching toddlers to sullen teenagers, the city’s got something to put a smile on everyone’s face. One thing about Montreal - it’s incredibly safe. Public transportation is easy to navigate, and you can send off your teens to roam around the city without fear. For the little ones, there are plenty of parks and playgrounds for them to run their little hearts out. For extra thrills, check out La Round, Montreal’s 46- year-old amusement park. In the winter, the wildlife at the Biodome and the dinosaur bones at the Redpath Museum are enough to impress the worldliest of six-year-olds. If you’re feeling brave, you can strap on skates and skip out to one of the city’s ice rinks for some casual gliding or Montreal-style hockey (pacifists beware!). The reward for this potentially frostbitten fun? A family trip to Juliette et Chocolat for a cup of traditional Belgian hot chocolate.

“And some places you been before are so great that you don't ever mind going back. Some places you been before you don't ever want to go back, you know, like Montreal in the winter.” - Morgan Freeman.

Everyone likes to hate on Montreal winters. That’s part of their charm. Unbeknownst to most, the winter months offer their own brand of fun. Only 30 minutes to an hour outside the city are a range of ski hills will make you forget the slush and ice that made driving there seem so perilous.

In the fall, one word: LEAVES. The whole city takes on an orangey-golden glow.

When summer starts to glitter on the horizon, pack a picnic and soak in the rays in one of the city’s 17 parks, which take up a combined 4,900 acres.

Were you one of those girls that looked at Mary Kate Olsen’s closet with mouth-foaming envy? Chic boutique and luxury department store paired with one-of-a-kind vintage finds is Montreal’s signature style. Shop the pop-up shops of Mile End for up and coming labels, stop by Holt Renfrew, Ogilvy or The Bay for some fabulous finds by your favorite designers, mix-and-match with a vintage blazer or skirt from Friperie Saint Laurent or Eva B, and voila! Ultimate French-girl cool with a North American twist.

Pour les garçons, we have something for you too. Enter suit-heaven at manly oases like Boutique Duo or Harry Rosen.

As beautiful as the city can be during the day, the real spirit of Montreal comes out at night. In the winter, the city’s bars and clubs are a steamy haven from the cold winter chill. In the summer, the streets are awash with chairs, tables, street fairs and parties. Pick any street in the Plateau Mont Royal or Mile End, and carouse your way down. For fans of the prolonged dinner, most restaurants stay packed until well after midnight. If you’ve bought the perfect pair of dancing shoes, head to Velvet. The metro stays open until 1 a.m. on weekends, but a friendly cab is always available when you’re ready to pry yourself away.